All the products are available for online purchase and shops national wide. Once the payment has cleared, you can pick up from Auckland or we will get it ship to your door step!

All grills are refundable with 30 days of online purchase. Customer has managed the shipping to return it back to Auckland warehouse. The goods must be in a resell condition.

Online orders are dispatched next day after cleared payments. If we have received you order on Monday and payment cleared on Tuesday, then your goods will be on the way by Wednesday from Auckland. Delivery time could be between 2-5 days depends on your location.

Firstly, ensure you have two men can handle a 75kg box, and your car is big enough to fit it in! (Davy Corckett is approx 30kg, one man can handle). Usual pick up time is weekend times, but if you like to arrange a different time please email us on info@bbqgrills.co.nz

If none of solution works for you on this page, please email us on info@bbqgrills.co.nz, we will take care the rest!

1. Angle the grease tray and insert it down into the grill. Be sure that the side with the finger hole is on the left.
2. The right side of the tray needs to hang over the grease trough shown in picture.
3. The left side of the tray (side with the hole) has a flange on it that fits over the mounted bracket on the left side of the grill. (Note: Be sure that the grease tray is not touching the thermal sensor located inside the grill on the left. If you choose to cover your tray in foil, be sure that both the thermal sensor and the hole in the grease tray are not obstructed with foil.)

During the winter months you’re going to want to adjust your chimney cap to .5″ or about one finger width. Measurement is from the bottom edge of the chimney cap cone to the top of the chimney stack. In the summer adjust to 1.5″ or about two finger widths.
To adjust, loosen nut at base of the screw (shown in picture) then, adjust the nut on the top of the chimney cap either up or down. Tighten set screw to secure in place.

1. It is important to unplug the unit before you start looking over any parts.
2. Unscrew the 2 tiny Philips head screws on the front control panel (shown in picture) and pull the control panel out towards you. You may let the panel hang.
3. Locate the small two pin plug shown in picture.
4. Check to be sure that plug is securely installed. It is a good idea to disconnect the plug and reattach it firmly.
5. Inspect the wires from the plug in step 4, be sure they are not bent or damaged.
6. If this has not resolved the issue your unit will require a new thermal sensor. Simply go to buy part (if your grill is under warranty, you will just need to put in your serial number) and order a new thermal sensor.

Replacement

1. Remove pellets from hopper.
2. Remove control panel.
3. Disconnect the two pin plug from step 3 above.
4. Remove the four 10mm bolts that attach the pellet hopper to the grill, two on front two on back (see picture). Tilt the hopper away from the grill (shown in picture).
5. Remove the grates and grease tray from inside the grill.
6. Locate the thermal sensor (show in picture) and remove the 5/8″ nut.
7. Pull the thermal sensor off of the grill.
8. Replace with new sensor and reassemble your grill. Be sure not to damage sensor wires when reassembling.

1. Rest the rectangular heat shield over the mounted brackets located on either side of the fire pot.
2. If you chose to use the optional side heat deflectors, install them as shown in the picture on either side of the center heat shield. You may experiment with the orientation of the side heat deflectors to customize the heat distribution of the grill.

Rest the rectangular heat shield over the mounted brackets located on either side of the fire pot.

1. Line up hinge pegs on the tray with the hinge receivers attached to the right side of the grill. (See photo)
2. Secure table into brackets, then lift tray up and attach the support arm.
3. Push down abruptly on the top of the tray to snap into place.

1. Check to be sure that hopper pellet level is above the yellow pellet sensor (shown in picture)
2. Loosen black, plastic nut on the low pellet sensor.
3. Adjust the yellow piece either in or out of the black, plastic nut 2 turns.
4. Re-tighten black, plastic nut into hopper wall.
5. Check to see if the beeping stopped (place something over the sensor to test).
6. If this hasn’t solved the issue, your grill will need a new low-pellet sensor. Simply go to buy part (if your grill is under warranty, you will just need to put in your serial number) and order a low-pellet sensor.
7. In order to remove the current LPA (low-pellet alarm), you will need a small Philips head screwdriver.
8. It is important to unplug the unit before you start looking over any parts.
9. Unscrew 2 tiny Philips head screws on front control panel (shown in picture) , and pull the control panel out towards you. You may let the panel hang.
10. Locate the 6-pin plug at the top of the control board (shown in picture). Remove the plug gently.
11. Locate ambient air temperature sensor on the side of the hopper (it is behind the vent, shown in the picture).
12. Using your Philips head screwdriver and holding the nuts on the back, remove both bolts. Let the sensor hang.
13. Next, clip off the small zip tie holding the cluster of wires together (shown in picture).
14. Next, completely remove black, plastic nut from the yellow low pellet sensor (shown in picture).
15. Remove the sensor by sticking your hand through the hole (created by the control board’s absence) and pull the sensor out of the hopper.
16. Both the ambient air temperature sensor and the low-pellet sensor should now freely come out of the hopper.
17. Replacement is the opposite of removal.

1. Make sure meat probe is securely inserted into control board with no kinks in the wire.
2. If this doesn’t resolve the “NoFd” code you grill will require a new meat probe. Simply go to buy part (if your grill is under warranty, you will just need to put in your serial number) and order a new meat probe.

Hang the grease bucket on the hook underneath the side tray table on the right. If you like, you may line the grease bucket with foil for easy cleaning.

Hang the bucket on the hook

1. It is important to unplug the unit before you start looking over any parts.
2. Unscrew the 2 tiny Philips head screws on the front control panel (shown in picture) and pull the control panel out towards you. You may let the panel hang.
3. Using a can of computer cleaner thoroughly blow off the back of the control board.
4. Reattach control board and test the unit.

IF THIS HASN’T SOLVED YOUR ISSUE YOU WILL NEED TO CHECK THE WIRING FOR THE COMBUSTION FAN.

1. Locate the combustion fan under the back side of the bottom of the grill.
2. The blue wires located inside the white sheathe shown here, operate the combustion fan. Check to be sure those connections are secure and are not melted or burned (shown in picture).
3. If the wiring or the fan itself is damaged you will need a new one. Simply go to buy part (if your grill is under warranty, you will just need to put in your serial number) and order a new combustion fan.

IF ALL WIRING TO THE COMBUSTION FAN LOOKS CORRECT YOU WILL NEED TO CHECK THE WIRING TO THE HOPPER FAN.

1. Look up under the hopper and locate the 2 black wires attached to the hopper fan. These wires connect with 2 blue wires (see picture), using in-line connectors. Ensure that those connections do not appear to be damaged in any way.
2. If wiring is damaged, please contact technical support at 1-800-603-3398.

1. To install chimney you will need a 10mm wrench or socket. Tighten chimney securely to the side of the grill. Make sure that the white gasket goes between the chimney and the grill itself. (See Picture)

1. It is important to unplug the unit before you start looking over any parts.
2. Using your finger, flick the fan to be sure that it spins freely and does not appear to have any visible damage.
3. The blue wires located inside the white sheathe shown here, operate the combustion fan. Check to be sure those connections are secure and are not melted or burned.
4. If there is no visible damage to the combustion fan or wires, please call technical support at 1-800-603-3398. If your combustion fan or wiring appears to be damaged, Simply go to buy part (if your grill is under warranty, you will just need to put in your serial number) and order a new combustion fan.

REPLACEMENT

1. While the grill in unplugged, use wire cutters to cut the white nylon zip tie that holds combustion fan wires in place.
2. Pull apart the in-line connectors to disconnect combustion fan.
3. Remove the 4 screws attaching the combustion fan assembly to grill.
4. Install the new fan and follow instructions in reverse order.

1. It is important to unplug the unit before you start looking over any parts.
2. Unscrew the 2 tiny Philips head screws on the front control panel (shown in picture) and pull the control panel out towards you. You may let the panel hang.
3. Carefully remove both plugs from the top of the control panel.
4. Carefully detach the large main plug and free the control board from the grill.
5. Attach the new control board by reversing the steps above.

Remove the two screws and unplug the control board

Is your grill and hopper lid both closed? If they are and the auger is still not feeding pellets, please read on. Take a look at the little white fan(Black if made before 2009) attached to the end of the auger motor as seen in the picture we have shown here. Is that fan moving as you have a desired temperature set higher than the current temperature showing on the control board? Can you hear the motor running? If you answered yes to both of these questions, see if you can spin the white fan a few rotations. Sometimes a pellet may “bridge” and cause a bind inside the auger. If this did not fix your issue, please call 1-800-603-3398 OPT 2.

the auger motor

AT TIMES, THE GREY WIRE UNDERNEATH WILL SHIFT IN SHIPPING FROM YOUR DEALER’S LOCATION OR EVEN AROUND YOUR OUTSIDE AREA

1. Take a look underneath your grill for the grey wire and simply move it away from your auger fan blade. This will end the clicking noise.

.

Push the wire out of the way of the fan

When your grill goes through its start-up process, it is not unusual to see a great deal of smoke especially when the fans start the fire. Once you reach the default temperature of 150 degrees (320 (not a smoke setting) on grills made before 2009), you are in a smoke setting. Traditional smoke settings swill go up to 225 degrees. In this range of temperatures, you will see a steady flow of smoke as the grill is feeding more pellets into the firebox at the loss of temperature. As your grill is maintaining temps, you will not see as much smoke. As you increase the temperature controller above 225 all the way up to 500 degrees, you will see even less smoke as you reach into barbecue temperatures and above.

Note: Generally, you get more smoke at lower temps than at high ones. That being said, pellets burn pretty efficiently because of their shape and density and will not produce as much smoke as a stick burner.

Your Green Mountain Grill can smoke more than this.

My unit has no power or inconsistent power

1. It is important to unplug the unit before you start looking over any parts.
2. Unscrew the 2 tiny Philips head screws on the front control panel (shown in picture) and pull the control panel out towards you. You may let the panel hang.
3. Take a look on the back of the “Power” switch and make sure the wire clips have not come loose like the one in the photo.

If this hasn’t solved your issue you will need to check the fuse.

1. One of the red wires coming from the main plug on the control board has a black fuse holder (shown in picture).
2. Using two hands rotate the fuse holder counter clockwise until it opens.
3. Inspect that the fuse is not burnt, broken, and that the filament is intact.

If this had not fixed your problem please call technical support at 1-800-603-3398.

Sometimes if a grill is left out in the weather for a prolonged period of time, any pellets left inside the auger tube may absorb moisture and harden into a concrete-like substance. If this happens, you will likely need to clear out your auger tube.

Before taking apart the hopper assembly, it is a good idea to try a couple of faster methods to clear the tube:

• Take out the grease tray and heat shields. Put the grill in cycle 0 (turn the unit on), and tap lightly on the auger tube with either a hammer, or a similar device. Sometimes this is enough to free up whatever is jamming the auger. If the auger hasn’t fed any pellets by cycle 1, switch off the grill. While the grill is unplugged, Empty the pellets out of the hopper until you can see the auger, (see photo) plug in your grill and try again. If neither of these work, move onto the next instructions.

Auger removal
Tools you will need:

• 10 mm wrench.
• Philips-head screwdriver.

1. Unplug unit from the wall.
2. Take all pellets out of the hopper (if not already out).
3. Remove the two Philips-head screws from the temperature control (see photo).
4. Pull the temperature control out and remove both plugs from the top corners.
5. Next, pull apart the white multiplug behind the temperature control. Set the controller off to the side.
6. Using the 10 mm wrench, unscrew the 4 bolts which hold the pellet hopper.
7. Gently slide the hopper up and off to the left, placing it on either a bucket, or chair (or anything else comparable). (see photo) Be careful not to pull any wires too far.
8. Locate the cotter-pin which connects the auger motor to the auger. Straighten out the free ends of the pin, and pull it out of the hole (see photo).
9. Next, you’ll unscrew the two 10 mm bolts which hold the motor bracket in place (see photo). Once these are out, gently set the motor off to the side.
10. At this point, you are free to maneuver the auger in order to free it up. Many times, just sticking a screwdriver through the cotter-pin hole will give you enough torque to unjam the auger(see photo). You may also grab onto the end of the auger with vice grips, and attempt to free it that way.
11. Once the jam is cleared, (see photo) you may put the grill back together. This is exactly the opposite of removal.
12. Before operation, ensure that the auger tube is primed with pellets.